Exploring the Charm of Green Tea: A Deep Dive into China's Top Ten Famous Teas
Among the top ten famous Chinese teas—Huangshan Maofeng, Liu'an Guapian, Xihu Longjing, Qimen Black Tea, Dongting Biluochun, Junshan Yinzhen, Xinyang Maojian, Wuyi Rock Tea, Anxi Tieguanyin, and Taiping Houkui—six belong to the category of green tea. As spring arrives, green tea, especially the highly prized first flush, becomes a must-have for tea lovers who appreciate the delicate nuances of "a cup of tea for a friend."
However, many questions still surround green tea. What exactly defines green tea? How is it classified? What makes green tea so special? What is the first flush, and how does it differ from pre-Qingming tea? Why is the first flush considered a luxury?
What Defines Green Tea?
Green tea is made from the young shoots of the tea plant, processed through steps like fixation, rolling, and drying. Unlike other types of tea, green tea is non-fermented, retaining its green color in both the dry leaves and the brewed tea, which is why it’s named "green tea." It’s the oldest type of tea, with its origins dating back to the 8th century when the steaming method was invented. By the 12th century, the pan-firing method had matured, and the production techniques have been refined and perfected over time.
The Different Schools of Green Tea
Beyond classifying green tea by its drying method (pan-fired, oven-dried, sun-dried, or steamed), let’s explore a new way to categorize green tea based on cultural and geographical influences.
- Literati Tea: Longjing and Biluochun
The Jiangnan region is a haven for scholars and literati. This area, rich in poetic scenery and cultural heritage, has nurtured the minds and spirits of many ancient Chinese scholars. Famous teas like Longjing from West Lake and Biluochun from Taihu Lake are products of this region. Longjing, known for its "green color, fragrant aroma, mellow taste, and beautiful shape," exudes elegance and grace, much like a refined lady. Biluochun, with its curled leaves and floral aroma, resembles a young maiden. These teas, cherished by the literati, represent the epitome of sophistication.
- Anhui Green Tea: Liu'an Guapian and Taiping Houkui
Nestled within the picturesque landscapes of Anhui province, Liu'an Guapian and Taiping Houkui grow in a region famed for its beautiful mountains and clear waters. Liu'an Guapian is unique as the only tea made from single leaves without buds or stems, while Taiping Houkui is known for its "two leaves embracing one bud" formation. These teas, with their distinctive characteristics, belong to the Anhui green tea category.
- Highland Tea: Ten Miles Aroma and Duyun Maojian
The Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, with its high altitudes and mist-covered mountains, is home to Ten Miles Aroma and Duyun Maojian. Ten Miles Aroma, from Baohong Mountain in Yunnan, has a natural floral scent, while Duyun Maojian, from Guizhou, thrives at elevations above 1,000 meters. These teas represent the highland tea category.
- Zen Tea: Jingshan Tea
Jingshan Mountain may not be as famous as others, but Jingshan Temple has been renowned for its high monks. The tea culture here dates back to the Tang and Song dynasties when Buddhist rituals included tea ceremonies. The tea from this region, Jingshan Tea, embodies the essence of "tea and Zen as one," and the area is also where the tea sage Lu Yu wrote his classic work, "The Classic of Tea," making it the birthplace of the Japanese tea ceremony.
- Famous Mountain Tea: Huangshan Maofeng and Lushan Yunwu
China’s most beautiful mountains, Huangshan and Lushan, are known to all. Huangshan Maofeng tea grows in the favorable conditions of Huangshan, famous for its "odd pines, strange rocks, sea of clouds, and hot springs." Lushan Yunwu, from the picturesque Lushan Mountain in Jiangxi, is nurtured by the mist and produces tea with a high and lasting fragrance. These teas, grown in renowned mountains, deserve the title of famous mountain tea.
What Makes Green Tea Special?
As southern green teas hit the market, they bring the essence of spring to the still chilly north. Besides the freshness, what else makes green tea so remarkable?
- Origin in Scenic Regions
The various teas from the five schools all grow in regions with excellent environments, boasting beautiful landscapes and clean air.
- Complex and Refined Craftsmanship
The production of green tea involves a meticulous process, whether it’s pan-fired, oven-dried, sun-dried, or steamed. For example, West Lake Longjing (a pan-fired green tea) undergoes strict steps, from plucking to spreading, fixation, cooling, final firing, sifting, shaping, and storing.
- Pleasure in Brewing
Green tea offers a visual treat as the leaves slowly unfurl and dance in the water, creating a “tea dance” that is a feast for the eyes. The vibrant green leaves, floating in the water, resemble grasses swaying in a pond—a beautiful representation of spring.
What is the First Flush? How Does it Differ from Pre-Qingming Tea?
Many might think that any tea picked before the Qingming Festival is pre-Qingming tea. However, pre-Qingming tea refers specifically to teas from the Jiangnan region of the Yangtze River basin. Tea from regions like Yunnan, Guizhou, Sichuan, Guangxi, Fujian, and Hainan, even if picked before Qingming, does not qualify as pre-Qingming tea.
The first flush refers to the very first harvest of the spring tea season. After a winter of dormancy, the tea plants have accumulated the richest flavors and aromas. The first buds of spring, harvested before temperatures rise, yield tea with the freshest taste and most intense aroma of the year. Essentially, the first flush is the first batch of pre-Qingming tea.
Why is the First Flush as Valuable as Luxury Goods?
There’s a saying that "pre-Qingming tea is as precious as gold," and the first flush is even more prized. Here’s why the first flush can fetch prices in the thousands or even tens of thousands per kilogram:
- Scarce Raw Materials
Due to the low temperatures and limited tea leaf growth in the Jiangnan region before Qingming, the quantity of tea leaves that reach harvestable size is limited, making the first flush a rare and precious commodity.
- Difficult Harvesting
To produce 1 kilogram of premium green tea, nearly 80,000 tender buds must be harvested. The buds cannot be too small or too large—about 1.5 to 2.0 cm in length, with the leaf shorter than the bud. During harvesting, skilled pickers use their fingertips, not fingernails, to avoid damaging the tender buds. An experienced picker can only harvest about half a kilogram of fresh leaves in a day.
- High Labor Costs
Labor costs significantly impact tea prices, including the costs of picking and processing. Skilled tea pickers earn around 120–150 RMB per day (with food and lodging), and temporary workers can earn up to 200 RMB per day. A tea master earns approximately 3,000 RMB per day. These figures continue to rise each year, adding to the cost of the first flush tea.
In conclusion, the allure of green tea is beautifully captured in the words of Zhang Kangkang:
"The color of the tea is jade green, nourishing the eyes and the heart, making it almost too precious to drink. With each sip, the green pearls roll over the tongue, first slightly bitter, then leaving a mouthful of fresh fragrance. Before the tea cools, your mouth is already filled with a sweet, refreshing sensation—a pleasant and satisfying experience."
Let’s go enjoy a cup of tea.
